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Climbing Wedges
When climbing, especially at an advanced level, the choice of equipment can greatly influence both performance and safety. Wedges, those small passive protective devices inserted into cracks in the rock, are crucial to the safety of climbers on adventure terrain. This buying guide will provide you with technical information and advice on choosing the right belaying devices for your climbing needs. Find our best belay devices for climbing and other belay equipment.
1. Understanding the different types of belay devices
Belay devices fall into two main categories: nuts and friends. Each type has specific applications and advantages, depending on the type of rock and the nature of the crack.
Wire rope anchors: These anchors consist of a metal block of various shapes, with a wire rope running through it. They are lightweight, inexpensive and effective in narrow, regular cracks. Their simplicity makes them highly durable and reliable. They come in a variety of shapes (symmetrical, asymmetrical, double-pointed) to suit different crack configurations.
Mechanical wedges (or friends): More sophisticated, friends feature a cam mechanism that allows the wedge to actively adjust to the width of the crack. They are particularly useful in irregular, splayed cracks where a rope clamp would not fit stably. Their use requires more practice for effective installation, but their versatility makes them a popular choice among experienced climbers.
2. Selecting size and material
Selecting the right size of wedge is essential to effectively cover the different crack widths you'll encounter.
Size: It's advisable to have a set of belay clamps covering a wide range of sizes. For rope clamps, this generally means having sizes ranging from very small to very large. For friends, many brands offer slightly overlapping sizes, enabling more precise coverage of different crack widths.
Material: The material of the stoppers affects both their weight and strength. Aluminum alloys are common, offering a good balance between lightness and durability. Some high-end wedges use composite materials or special alloys to further reduce weight or increase strength.
3. Practical considerations when choosing belay devices
Reliability and safety: Choosing anchors from well-known brands such as Black Diamond or Petzl is crucial to guaranteeing reliability and safety on your ascents.
Relevance to your environment: Some brands, such as YY Vertical, also offer a range adapted to the specific conditions you may encounter on your route.
Awareness of standards: The importance of UIAA or CE standards should be taken into account when making your choice, to ensure your safety on every route you climb.
Diversity of choice: why opt for several models?
Having several different models can make all the difference when you're faced with the varied challenges of outdoor climbing.
Indeed, Petzl, for example, offers various types suitable for beginners and experts alike, so it would be wise to explore their options before making a final purchase.
Similarly, YY Vertical, with its recent innovations in this dynamic market, could also enhance your personal equipment while guaranteeing optimum performance!
