€ Sign in
Contact
Hiking
Mountaineering
Climbing
Camping
Survival
Trail
Running
Road biking
Mountain biking
Canyoning
Alpine Skiing
Ski touring
Cross-country skiing
Snowboarding
Snow activities
Lifestyle
Understanding carabiner types
Locking carabiners
Locking carabiners are designed to provide extra security. Their locking system can be manual (screw or twistlock) or automatic (autolock or trilock). Each offers specific advantages:
- Screw: Requires the user to manually screw in the lock to secure the carabiner. Reliable and controllable, it's preferred for situations where it's crucial to check that the carabiner is securely closed.
- Twistlock: locks automatically once the door is closed and requires two actions to open (turn and push), offering fast, effective security, ideal for situations requiring frequent clipping and unclipping.
- Autolock and trilock: These systems offer an even higher level of security, and are often used in professional environments. They require several movements to open, minimizing the risk of accidental opening.
Non-locking snap hooks
Lighter and generally less expensive, non-locking carabiners are often used for progression on sport climbing routes, or to attach equipment to a harness. Despite their lack of a locking system, they remain a popular choice for many configurations where speed of carabiner attachment is a priority.
Carabiner selection criteria
Material and strength
Most carabiners are made of aluminum or steel. Aluminum offers a good balance between lightness and strength, while steel is preferred for its durability and superior strength, often used in more demanding environments such as rescue or industry.
A carabiner's strength is indicated by three numbers:
- Longitudinal strength (with finger closed): This is the highest and most important, as it measures the force the carabiner can withstand along its long axis.
- Transverse resistance: This is generally the lowest and indicates the resistance when the carabiner is loaded perpendicular to its long axis.
- Resistance with finger open: Important for assessing the carabiner's safety should the finger accidentally open.
Shape and size
The carabiner's shape has a direct influence on its use:
- Symmetrical shapes: Suitable for belaying or belay systems.
- Asymmetrical shapes: offer a better strength-to-weight ratio and are often used for climbing.
- D or HMS shapes: Particularly suitable for maneuvers with the rope, such as belaying or abseiling.
Wire or solid finger gate
The design of the carabiner gate also affects its use:
- Wiregate: Lighter and less prone to freezing in mountaineering, it's ideal for situations where every gram counts.
- Solid-finger gate: Generally sturdier and easier to handle, suitable for frequent use.
The choice of carabiner depends on your specific climbing practice, your safety needs, and your personal preference in terms of handling and functionality. It's essential to understand the different options available and to choose according to the specifics of your activity. Remember that climbing safety depends largely on the quality and reliability of your equipment. So choose carefully, always choosing quality over quantity.
